Steaming chai, warming lunch at Tulsi Tea Room

“As snow finally fell for the first time this year, I was transported back in time and halfway around the globe to Dharmasalam, India. Several years ago I had the good fortune to travel in northern India; because I was there during the winter, my companions and I spent quite a bit of time in teahouses, warming ourselves with pots of spicy chai (tea) and watching the snow fall. Tulsi Tea Room, on Elm Street, has recreated this teahouse experience quite wonderfully.”

So I wrote about Tulsi Tea Room in 2009, when it first opened as the Tulsi Tea Collective. Solenne Thompson, one of the original collective members, took individual ownership of the teahouse this past summer, and under Thompson’s leadership the teahouse has retained its warm, inviting flavor while expanding its food and beverage offerings.

Mung bean daal with almonds and raisins, and a fresh hot chapati filled with potato and carrot curry, made up my lunch last week:
Here is Thompson behind the counter, which is laden with the raw, whole-foods sweet treats she creates under her other business name, Amai Bijoux:
Learn more about Thompson, Tulsi’s lunch and grab-and-go offerings, and the restaurant’s semi-controversial equipment addition in this week’s Montpelier Bridge.

Late-September food happenings in central Vermont…

Fresh Tracks Farm Vineyard & Winery in Berlin presents a Bluegrass Festival on Saturday, September 22 from 11 a.m. – 6 p.m. Enjoy their wines by the glass, wood fired pizza, and live music by Tallgrass Getdown and Something with Strings. For the kids: popsicles and a bouncy house! Bring your lawn chairs or blanket and enjoy the season.

It’s a fine time of year to visit the Kingdom. The Vermont Fresh Network’s next Farmers’ Dinner is this Sunday, September 23 at the Parker Pie Company in West Glover. The shindig features pot-au-feu and cranberry-glazed goat, along with seasonal salad and dessert. $50 per person; call 525-3366 for reservations.

Stomp some grapes at the Boyden Valley Winery Harvest Festival, also featuring food, wine, and grape tastings; tours; and hayrides all day. September 22 & 23. Proceeds will benefit Camp Ta-Kum-Ta, a safe and challenging camping experience for Vermont children who have had cancer.

Pick Your Own Potatoes at Chappelle’s Farm in Williamstown. 30 cents a pound – you follow the digger. Bring your own containers (buckets are good). Sunday, September 23, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.  South Hill Road, Williamstown – follow the signs from Route 14 south of Williamstown. 433-5930.

On October 2, the Uncommon Market will celebrate its 5-year anniversary. They will be celebrating with music, birthday cake, an in-store wine tasting, face painting, and lots of free samples of tons of our food. Stop by to say happy birthday!

Need a job? The Three Penny Taproom kitchen is hiring! Great food, and I gotta think there’s a perk or two, too. Send your resume to matthew@threepennytaproom.com.

Matthew’s back in the kitchen!

I’m not one for rankings, but Matthew Bilodeau is one of my three favorite Vermont chefs. I loved his food when he was cooking at the [old] Black Door, and I’m psyched he’s back in action at the “new” Three Penny Taproom. From Matthew’s cooking I’ve learned to love swiss chard, celeriac, and Tarentaise cheese. He cooked one of the best steaks I’ve ever had.

The guy’s been working 100-hour days to open the kitchen at the Taproom (see today’s Times-Argus story), but he’s happy as a clam. Granted, he has no time to watch the Tour de France during those days, but he’s content with the midnight recaps, he says. Will he have time to watch any Olympics, between cooking and canning all the tomatoes coming in the door? “They never show track bike racing anyway,” he says of his favorite event.

When asked that old standard of chef-interview questions — if you could cook for anyone, who would it be and what would you cook? — he responded that he’d cook for his mom “since I don’t get the opportunity to do that very often.” So dedicated is he to cooking what’s fresh and seasonal that his response, delivered with his boyish smile, was simply, “whatever we have that night.”

Whatever they have, when cooked by Matthew, is always great, and I highly recommend the Taproom for lunch or dinner.

Looking to get out of Montpelier this weekend? Check out the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival, hosted at Shelburne Farms and presented by the Vermont Cheese Council. Maybe they’ll be sampling some of that yummy Tarentaise…

Celebrate Father’s Day with Food and Farm Events

Lots of great food events happening this weekend; if Dad’s a gourmand, take him out for a delicious Father’s Day!

Tonight (Friday), Ariel’s Restaurant in Brookfield is hosting an Andalucian dinner in cooperation with Scragg Mountain Music, a local musical company sponsoring a weekend of madrigals and the poetry of Spanish poet Federico García Lorca. The Andalucian menu includes tapas, paella, and olive oil cake. Chef Lee Duberman generally does everything right, so she’s sure to ace this Spanish menu. The 3-course prix-fixe meal is $40, or $60 with Richard’s expert wine pairings. Dinner’s at 6 pm; the music starts across the road at 8 pm. Dinner reservations at 276-3939.

Saturday, check out Americana band Bovine Social Club and special guest Patrick Fitzsimmons in concert at the Tupelo Muisc Hall in White River Junction. The show is sponsored by NOFA-VT and will benefit the Vermont Farm Share Program, which provides subsidized CSA shares to limited-income Vermont families. Tickets are $25 in advance and are available at the Tupelo Music Hall by phone at 603-437-5100 or online at http://tickets.tupelohallvermont.com.

Sunday, join the Floating Bridge Food and Farms Cooperative for a Father’s Day Farmers Market at the Brookfield Old Town Hall from 12-4 pm. Don’t make Dad man the grill on his special day – there will be lots of grilled meat for lunch, and more meat from FBFFC member farmers to take home (bring a cooler). Enjoy live music and swimming in Sunset Lake. It’s also Ariel’s Restaurant’s 15th anniversary, and cake will be served, so come celebrate Dad, Ariel’s, and summer in beautiful Brookfield.

Food Issue: Hunger, Self-Sufficiency, and Human Dignity

I’m one of those people who cries almost at the drop of a hat, but it’s rare for me to get choked up during an interview. This month, though, was different. As I spoke with Kimberly Lashua, director of the Montpelier Food Pantry, I found myself tearing up at the fact that, as a culture, society, and world, we continue to allow a system which denies so many people the adequate, meaningful employment that’s necessary to ensure economic self-sufficiency. So we continue to have food pantries and food banks and soup kitchens in this country; and “international food aid” (which is not always exactly that) in our global sphere.

I know it’s more complicated than that; and I do believe that it’s our collective responsibility to care for those less fortunate. So I’m glad there are food pantries and food banks and soup kitchens and international food aid. But sitting in the office of the Trinity Church, talking with Kimberly, I wished there was more focus on restructuring our economic system so that everyone could experience true economic self-sufficiency — and the dignity and self-respect that comes along with that.

This week’s Montpelier Bridge is the annual Food Issue, and it’s a good one. Read more about the Montpelier Food Pantry and Just Basics, its parent organization; how Food Works continues to meet its mission of teaching people to feed themselves; what local food products are served in Montpelier restaurants; controversy at the Montpelier Farmers Market (will Pete’s Greens be allowed to vend this year?); and much more.

Feeling inspired to fight hunger? Or looking for inspiration to continue? The Vermont Foodbank’s annual Hunger Conference is coming up on May 8. “Impact Through Innovation” is the theme this year. Keynote speaker Dr. Steven L. Robbins will also present workshops entitled “Human Differences: Understanding and Leveraging to Create Social Change” and “Diversity is Not the Problem, Closed-Mindedness Is.”

If the system is to change, we must all work to change it. I ask myself, what will I do? I ask you: what will you do?

More Healthy Snacks for Kids

Thanks to the many parents who chimed in with healthy snack ideas for this week’s issue of the Bridge. Buzz Ferver of Worcester says his kids love nori sheets, cut into tiny squares. According to the Eden Foods website, nori (a toasted sea vegetable which is dried and flattened into sheets) provides minerals, vitamins, trace minerals, iodine, and protein.

Jenny Stone Muilenburg of Seattle notes, “my kids will eat almost any vegetable that’s been roasted and salted: broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus, green beans, garbanzo beans…” For that last one she recommends Mark Bittman’s recipe for roasted chickpeas. Once roasted, these chickpeas are a great finger food for kids above the age of choking risk.

Special thanks to Montpelier naturopath Lydia Faesy, ND, for sharing some recommendations for healthy snacks for children. She suggests making nut butter balls from a combination of nut butter, dried milk, raisins, honey, coconut, seeds, granola, and/or wheat germ, all mixed together and baked, or unbaked and rolled in coconut flakes. Careful about taking these to school, though — to accommodate students with allergies, many schools restrict snacks that contain tree nuts.

In a fact sheet, Faesy cautions that “food should not be used as a reward or punishment, because the attention is taken away from the value of eating healthy foods.” Faesy encourages tasting many different kinds of foods, and involving children to take part in snack choices and preparation, noting, “what you feed your children now creates their eating likes, dislikes, and habits for the future.”

Vermont Liquors from Vermont Grains

One distiller I didn’t mention in this week’s Times-Argus story about local liquors is WhistlePig, based in Shoreham, Vermont.

WhistlePig Straight Rye Whiskey is a 100 percent rye, 100 proof whiskey. It’s currently made of Canadian whiskey and bottled in Shoreham, but WhistlePig is in the process of growing rye so that, eventually, the 10-year-aged whiskey will be able to call itself a Vermont rye whiskey.

Jay Bothwell, the Montpelier bartender who made nights at the old Black Door memorable, describes WhistlePig as “really smooth” and admires WhistlePig’s founder Raj Peter Bhakta for his approach to using the land in Shoreham.

“He’s taken over a farm and is seeding rye,” Bothwell notes. “He’s dedicated to continuity [of agriculture] in the use of the land.”

Caldonia Spirits* founder Todd Hardie, too, is looking to use Vermont grains–specifically, corn from Westfield’s Butterworks Farm–in future batches of whiskey. It will be interesting to see how Vermont distilling affects farmland use. Will large patches of land be preserved from development, to grow grains for mash? Time will tell.

*Caledonia Spirits will be offering tastings of its distilled beverages at the Montpelier Farmers Market on Saturday, January 7 (10am-2pm in the VCFA gym).

Happy new year, everyone!

Farmer Exchange: Wellspring’s Mimi Arnstein visits Cuba

For this week’s Bridge, I was fortunate to speak with Mimi Arnstein about her recent trip to Cuba to attend Third International Agroecology Conference, sponsored by the National Association of Small Farmers, a Cuban farming organization, and La Via Campesina, an international peasant movement. There wasn’t room in the paper to run all the great stories she shared with me, so here’s more:

Arnstein visited over 20 farms in Cuba, meeting farmers whose access to the world beyond the island is incredibly limited, including this tobacco farmer in Pinar del Rio, Cuba:

“The people of Cuba possess much warmth, and are very interested about the world outside,” Arnstein wrote in personal correspondence. “The culture of Cuba is a unique mix – poor in their economy put very rich in much more: community, connection, beauty, open minds, history and pride.”

In our interview, Arnstein noted how the people of Cuba worked around their situation to provide for themselves: “Time and again we’d see these adverse conditions — rocky, sandy soil — and very little supplies because of the economy, yet people were building something out of nothing using anything that they had — stones, concrete — in order to be able to create raised beds in the city,” she said. “Then they would put in their compost, put in their vermiculture, and start growing. Necessity is driving creative productivity.”

On farms, she noted how common intercropping is. Here, plantains and lettuce are growing together:

The shade of the larger plants provides great ground cover for the shorter plants, she noted, and has “beautiful benefits for the soil.” When asked how her visit to Cuba might influence her farming at Wellspring this upcoming season, Arnstein said, “I want to mimic some of the farming systems I saw in Cuba, and take more of a whole system approach. I will definitely think more closely about intercropping and permaculture.”

I was struck by two comments Arnstein made on topics that are near and dear to my heart: Compost and cooperatives.

Here’s a solid waste system I would love to see in Vermont: “In a number of instances, in particular in the urban areas,” Arnstein said, “the community brought all of their organic waste — grass, leaves, food scraps — to the urban farms in order for them to make compost out of that organic matter.”

A strong cooperative structure supports Cuban farmers’ efforts, Arnstein noted: “Of course, the economic structure is so different in Cuba, but most farmers work with a cooperative that helps farmers get access to credit and supplies; distributes the product; and provides payment to the growers. The first place that food gets provided to is schools and hospitals, and they call this “social consumption.” The idea is that the first place that is provided for is the common good. So the food grown in a community is going to that school, that hospital, and the co-op is distributing it. Once that contract is met, whatever surplus farmers grow, they can sell. But first and foremost they have to provide for the common good.”

In terms of connecting with Cubans, Arnstein says, “I asked what is the best thing we can do is. ‘Visit,’ the people say. ‘Come, speak with the people and share.'” She described her visit as incredibly powerful. “The greatest act of connection,” she says, “was simply to have a conversation with somebody else.”

Why I’m running for the Hunger Mountain Coop Council

I’ve served on the Council of the Hunger Mountain Coop since January 2011, when I was appointed to fill an open seat. I want to continue to serve on the Council because I believe in the vital role the Coop plays in our food system and local economy. As a Council member, I commit to focus on three things:

1. Improving communication. Everyone in the Coop community deserves to have their voice respectfully heard–Member-Owners, staff, management, vendors, and Council members. This year’s contract negotiations pointed out that we can improve in this area to increase understanding for and of all parties.

2. Maintaining continuity. With the current Council member turnover (due mostly to expiring terms), the Council will lose over 20 years of experience. I believe it is important to maintain continuity of passion and purpose so that the Council’s past good work is sustained for the benefit of the Coop.

3. Expand the Coop’s purpose in this community. The Coop is a strong organization with the capacity to lead. I believe Member-Owners should be able to answer the question “Why shop at the Coop?” with a tangible example of a community initiative or program the Coop supports.

In 2012, the world will celebrate the International Year of Co-operatives, and Hunger Mountain will celebrate its 40th anniversary. I believe this provides the Hunger Mountain community with a unique opportunity to reflect thoughtfully on our past as we plan for our future.

Ballots are arriving in the mail this week. To vote, complete the ballot, seal and sign the enclosed envelope, and return the ballot to the Coop in person or by mail by 8pm on Friday, November 4. Or, bring the ballot to the Coop annual meeting on Sunday, November 6 (before noon).

In this election, there are 13 candidates for 7 open Council seats. There will be a “Meet the Candidates” event at the Coop on Monday, October 24 from 6-7 pm. Please attend if you would like to learn more about the candidates.