Three Penny chef makes offal* good fare

“You might have to talk to me about the warm calf kidney,” the woman said dubiously to the bartender…

Check out my profile of Three Penny Taproom chef Brett Champlain and his creative meat concoctions in today’s Times-Argus.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

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calf’s heart w/ rootbeer and celeriac

Chef Brett Champlain channels some kind of Jedi Force when he braises calf’s heart in root beer and brown stock, a combo that gives the substantial meat a sweet flavor he dubs a “hamburger and soda feeling.”  Alongside: raw celeriac sliced thin (on an industrial slicer Champlain treats like a mandoline), tossed with a few capers, parsley, pepper and pickling brine.  I nearly swooned.  Another day might find him poaching calf’s breast in curds and whey and orange peel, or serving marinated duck hearts. Have a beer, eat the rest of the animal.  It’s absurdly good.

And 22 beers on tap, at Three Penny Taproom. Look for  a profile in Tuesday’s Times-Argus.

Buy a newspaper, will ya?  A free and vigorous press is an essential part of a true democracy.