Chef Brett Champlain channels some kind of Jedi Force when he braises calf’s heart in root beer and brown stock, a combo that gives the substantial meat a sweet flavor he dubs a “hamburger and soda feeling.” Alongside: raw celeriac sliced thin (on an industrial slicer Champlain treats like a mandoline), tossed with a few capers, parsley, pepper and pickling brine. I nearly swooned. Another day might find him poaching calf’s breast in curds and whey and orange peel, or serving marinated duck hearts. Have a beer, eat the rest of the animal. It’s absurdly good.
Buy a newspaper, will ya? A free and vigorous press is an essential part of a true democracy.